7 Common Red Iguana Ailments – Tips To Take Care Of Them

The iguana family is considered the largest among the lizard families. Though the most common are green iguanas, there are also those with different colors including the red iguanas. One of the most popular red iguanas is the red-side skink. These are found in the forest habitat of Southern and Eastern Africa.

Caring for the Red Iguana

A red Iguana can stay in a 30 gallon aquarium. They may vary in size and styles made of glass, metal or wood. The basic requirement for keeping their cage is cleanliness. Keep it free from dirt, soil and loose barks as they may be contaminated and the iguana may ingest them. They must be supplied with appropriate supply of food and water. The cage must be provided with branches and twigs, rocks but must be disinfected to prevent infections.

Iguanas must be properly groomed. Bathing is a pleasant activity. It can be done using lukewarm water. Care must be given as not to surprise or panic iguanas during bathing.

Iguanas must be handled carefully and frequently to tame them. They show fondness on the pet owners who handles them regularly. They should be touched and held gently 3 times a day for fifteen minutes each. They like being stroke on their back and neck. However, be mindful that Iguanas are animals, that they can be aggressive at times. It may take patience and consistency in taming them.

Iguanas are herbivores so they should be fed with varieties of vegetables and fruits. The majority of the food intake must be more on the leafy vegetables. Limitation must be on protein rich foods. They should be fed everyday.

Water is very essential so it must be readily available. Normally they get water content only through the plants they consume. They need water regularly to prevent being dehydrated as they expose themselves to the required body heat.

If proper care and diet is not given to Iguanas, they may contract disease. Some of the ailments that iguanas may contract are:

1. Back leg and tail paralysis – This is due to vitamin B1 deficiency. This needs Veterinarian attention who will administer injection of essential vitamin and minerals.

2. Nose Abrasions – Attempts to get out of their cage may cause abrasions to their nose and face. Usually they rub their noses on the corners of their aquarium. The abrasions may be caused by broken glass, wires, loose metals, pointed objects. This may be avoided regular inspection of their cage and removing any potential harm to the iguana.

3. Heat Injuries – These are usually acquired due to contact with heating apparatus provided for the iguanas for their cage. Typical causes are hot light bulbs, hot rocks. Care and attention must be observed in installing heat supply for the cage.

4. Bacterial Infection – This can set in generally if the cage is unkempt, damp and dirty. Gangrene may set in with their toes and tails where the bacteria usually attack.

5. Parasites – As a result also of unsanitized surrounding and unsanitary food preparation. Parasites may settle in the internal organs of the iguana like the gastrointestinal tract. This case may cause death if left untreated in the early stage.

6. Organ failure – Organ failure may set in due to age. But that comes after a decade or more. This can occur also due to bacterial infection. Symptoms will be weight loss, loss of appetite, inactivity and bloating.

7. Egg Binding – This is typical to female iguanas when they fail to let their eggs come out of their reproductive tracts.

Deer Feeders and Feeding Tips – A Guide to a Safe and Enjoyable Home Hobby

All of us love deer and many people enjoy attracting them to their yards but some do not know how to do it well or at all. I have received many requests in regard to deer feeding and tips to do so properly. To begin with, feeding deer is very simple. Their sense of smell will direct them right to the feeder and your offering. When other food sources are becoming scarce, they will follow the scent of good quality feed over long distances. Once they have found it, they will be more than happy to stay around as long as there is a fairly consistent supply.

There are various aspects of feeding deer that need to be addressed before setting out a feeder. First and foremost. Deer are beautiful creatures and look to be friendly, cuddly and approachable. This is very far from the fact of the matter. Deer can become aggressive, although rarely, for many reasons and I advise to keep your distance and do not approach them for any reason. If you find a wounded deer, or any wild or domestic animal, call your local wildlife control organization and do not approach the animal. Any wounded animal is potentially very dangerous.

In order to feed deer properly and safely, pick a location away from your home with a good viewing area. Do not set a feeder near a doorway or other area that is or may be frequented by people or pets. If someone walks around a corner or through a doorway and comes face to face with a deer, that deer needs to make a decision. It will go into one of two modes, flight or fight. It prefers to flee and usually does but if it feels it cannot, it may decide to fight instead. Keep your feeders away from any area where people may come into close contact.

With that said, feeding deer is a wonderful hobby and one that can be done safely and enjoyably. Once you have picked a safe location for your feeder, it’s time to feed. We highly recommend whole shelled corn as the staple food. Whole shelled corn is the dried corn kernels that have been stripped from the cob as a whole seed. It is a high protein feed, readily available at any feed supply store and is the least expensive to buy. Most importantly, it remains edible for many days under high moisture conditions. When you start looking for suitable deer feed, you’ll find many types of deer feed on the market. Some are excellent and some are not. We’re often asked about commercial deer chows.

Deer Chow is a manufactured, pelletized product utilizing a mix of various feed types and may contain animal remnant by-products from slaughterhouses or the like. If these by-products are not processed correctly they may contain various diseases that can be introduced to the deer population through a feeding activity. Please do not use deer chows unless you are positive they are tested safe.

Another issue with deer chow, and my personal dislike for them, is their inability to remain palatable to your wildlife once it gathers moisture. Deer chow has no resistance to water and even humidity will render it worthless. Any rain, melting snow or high humidity will “puff” the chow into a mass of sloop. Think of a bowl of bran type cereal. By the time you have reached the bottom of the bowl, the cereal is mush. This is deer chow when it gets wet and your deer WILL NOT eat it. You have now wasted money on an expensive product and it must be discarded. Whole shelled corn is by far a superior food type. The encased kernel of corn protects itself from moisture and will remain edible for many days, wet or dry. Some people use cracked corn in hopes of feeding their turkeys or other large birds such as crows, blue jay and cardinals. Cardinals love my own deer feeder and use it all day long. This is a great idea as long as the feed is consumed quickly, within a day or so. Since the kernel, or pericarp or outer shell of the seed, of corn is “cracked” open, it losses its capability to protect itself from moisture. When exposed to wetness, it too will absorb water and my not be eaten by your deer. Turkeys and other birds have no issue with it though and if you have a good population of turkeys, they will readily consume your offering.

The MOST important rule of feeding deer is to offer one type of feed consistently. Deer are ruminants, like cows, and to properly digest their foods they develop a bacterium in their stomachs to start the process. Many unaware people start feeding their deer when the weather gets very cold or after other food sources are gone. This is a nice gesture but it takes many days for deer to produce the bacteria. Hence, your offering fills their bellies but they are getting little if any actual nutritional value. No matter when you start feeding, keep the same base food type available throughout the year or season. Once your deer have built up the appropriate bacteria, corn will become a premium food source. Its high levels of protein and complex sugars will do wonders in sustaining them through the hard months or helping them grow to their full potential.

Why feed deer? Besides the obvious reasons of our own enjoyment, Doe Deer that receive good nutrition throughout winter will produce the healthiest fawns in late spring. Most Does carry two fawns and it takes a lot of energy to grow them in a healthy manner. Feeding deer throughout the year will help hold them in your area which means they will bring their babies in late spring. Believe me, this is a treat you will not want to miss. Watching a pair or groups of baby deer feeding and frolicking around your yard will warm your heart like few other experiences. It is one of my most awaited wildlife moments of the whole year, I guarantee it will become one of yours too.

I highly recommend adding this new level of wildlife feeding to your home. It is easy and when done correctly, is perfectly safe and extremely rewarding. For more information regarding deer feeders and deer feeding tips, visit the web link below to read the full version of this article which includes some excellent information regarding white-tailed deer and their abilities to survive.

Raising A Pet Coatimundi: Tips On Feeding And Others

When you’re raising a pet coatimundi at home, you have to do some serious studying and research as to how you can properly nurture these kind of exotic pets. Even though, they’re going to be house pets like your usual cats and dogs, you have to know that they are a lot different from the latter.

In this article, we will be looking at different tips on raising a pet coatimundi at home. Let’s start with feeding. When baby coatis are already old enough, you can get them from their mother already so that you can start feeding them through the use of a bottle. When you start bottle feeding your baby pet coatis, it’s a good thing to start with puppy replacer milk. You can use a cup of this and mix it with 2 cups of water. To make it taste better, you can add a small amount of honey into the mix. At the start of weaning, baby coatis will often consume half to an ounce of milk during each feeding. You should feed them 4 times in a day. When they start getting used to feeding on the milk that you’re giving them, the amount that they consume per feeding will increase to an average of 2 to 3 ounces. Even though you may notice an increase in their appetite, it’s best that you don’t overfeed them. At the age of 6 to 8 weeks, your pet coatis may start developing loose stools. When this time comes, you should add in 1 tablet of Lactaid to each cup of milk that you use when mixing up their formula. Be sure to mix 24 hours in advance.

As your pets start growing bigger, you can shift them to Purina Puppy Chow until they grow into yearlings. During that time, you can then shift them to Purina Chow for Adult Dogs. Keeping these types of exotic pets inside large birdcages that have hammocks and blankets inside is really advisable. The hammocks and blankets will serve as their sleeping materials. When your pets start becoming active, you should see to it that the door of their cage is left open so that you can allow them to go in and out. In this way, they can play freely when they want to. After you feed them, it is best that you let them back in their cage so that they can do their thing and take a nap afterwards. These exotic animals are quite easy to paper train. They usually use a corner of their cage when they’re doing their business. However, like other types of pets, they will also make mistakes at times.

Coatis are known for their curious and active nature. They love moving around all the time except during nap time. When you have a pet coati at home, it’s like you have a 2 year old child who needs to be well guarded. You have to make your house child proof so that you can prevent your pet from getting injuries.